A LIMITED SERIES PODCAST
Second-hand clothing dominates the African textiles markets. Once donations, now a booming business. The question is, are these second-hand clothes Vintage or Violence?
In this six-part conversation series designer Bobby Kolade and filmmaker and visual artist Nikissi Serumaga get to the heart of the matter.
With weekly guests that occupy space across the textile and second-hand clothing value chain, Bobby and Nikissi discuss topics ranging from the systematic decline and precarious revival of the textile industry in Uganda to fast fashion and waste distribution.
Each episode has a collage image by Canon Rumanzi and a 1-minute video on the topic. We hope you enjoy listening and viewing as much as we enjoyed putting this labor of love together.
Where to find us
Visual Art from R. Canon Griffin
Fresh off the boat
A Degree is an Expensive Receipt -min
In The Good Old Days
Bobby Kolade is an award-winning designer and head of Fashion Council Uganda. Born in Sudan to Nigerian-German parents he grew up in Kampala and Lagos. He holds a masters in Fashion Design from the Academy of Arts Berlin Weissensee and has professional experience at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga in Paris.
His womenswear brand BOBBY KOLADE (Berlin, 2013-2016) was launched with coats made of Ugandan bark cloth and won the Start Your Fashion Business Award in Berlin and the New Star Award at the Shenzhen Day Prize, awarded by the UNESCO Creative Cities Network. Kolade was a finalist at the Woolmark Prize in 2015.
Kolade returned to his hometown Kampala in 2018, and is dedicated to the revival of the textile and garment industry in Uganda. He splits his time between research and building a new clothing brand. He is the co-writer and co-host of VINTAGE OR VIOLENCE.
Follow him @bobbykolade (Instagram and Twitter)
Nikissi Serumaga is a Kampala based filmmaker and visual artist. Born in Toronto and raised in Johannesburg and Kampala, she holds a BA in Film Studies from York University.
She has completed three short films and is currently directing her debut documentary feature. Serumaga has facilitated residency programs for contemporary artists and in 2019 completed a multi-media residency at 32° East, under their Pictures of Aging program in conjunction with Makerere and Cambridge Universities.
She is currently an artist in residency with the Wysing Arts Centre and is the creator, director and co-host of VINTAGE OR VIOLENCE.
Follow her @thisiskissi (Instagram and Twitter)
VINTAGE OR VIOLENCE is an original six-part limited series created, produced, recorded and edited in Kampala, Uganda. A first of its kind the series journeys into the world of second-hand clothing, from a Ugandan perspective. Each Episode is accompanied by 1-minute videos which are a combination of archive and contemporary footage. These punchy snippets add a rarely seen view of second-hand clothing from an East African perspective. Finally, each episode has a digital collage image, created by Ugandan visual artist Canon Rumanzi.
Is the second hand clothing that we receive from the Global North a sustainable response to clothing waste? Or an erosion of our local textiles industry?
Through the lens of textiles we question our identity, past and present. Uganda was once the site of a booming textile industry (#Cue1962IndependenceMusic), it is now one of the top 10 importers of second-hand clothing, globally. Numerous African countries have suffered a similar fate. What happened?
This is a conversation hosted by award-winning designer Bobby Kolade and filmmaker Nikissi Serumaga. It is born out of the research process on a feature documentary film they are currently making. As they venture deeper into the history of cotton in Uganda, the destruction and decline of industry and the failed promise of independence, it becomes clear that all this cannot live in one film – the content has to be distributed across formats.
- Fast fashion and waste distribution
- The booming textile industry of the 60s/70s
- The systematic decline and precarious revival of the textile industry
- An insiders perspective on the second-hand clothing trade
- Philanthropist & businesswoman, Mrs. Morine Wavamunno
- Second-hand clothing importer, Mr. Muhammed Kitezaala (Hajji)
- President of Uganda Textile society, Prof. Wanyama Aaron
- Second-hand vendor, Ms. Farida Ali
- Chairman of Uganda’s largest second-hand clothing market, Owino Market, Mr. Godfrey Kayongo
VINTAGE OR VIOLENCE is made possible through a grant from Resource Of Open Minds (R.O.O.M) – Hivos East Africa.
Sound Engineer | designer | mixer: Ssozi Joseph
Equipment: Gilbert Bwette
Visual Artist: Canon Rumanzi
Opening & Closing Music: Benjamin Wana
Assistants: Mugasha Isaiah Rutenga and Michael Sentamu Deo
Publicity Stills: Ian Nnyanzi
Video Editor: Alim Karmali
Release Coordinator: Timothy Niwamanya
Driver: Hassan Mwesigye
Boda-boda: Dennis Igaga
Police Officers: Ramadan Mpanguzi and Edward Isooba
Website Developer: Collin Rukundo
Special thanks to East African Records